It was only about 20 years ago, there were only maybe a dozen different transmissions on the road. Every transmission repair shop had a good stock of rebuilt units on hand. The times have changed... There were almost no updates necessary, and even if something unusual failed, most shops had a good supply of used parts on hand to replace it. Today there are more than ten times that many transmissions in use, with new ones showing up all the time. Many of those transmissions have several different variations or calibrations, with as many as a dozen modifications necessary.
In addition, today’s transmissions are computer controlled, which means even though your transmission may not be working properly, there’s a good chance the root cause of the problem doesn’t have anything to do with the transmission itself. To provide you with an accurate assessment of your transmission’s condition and give you an honest estimate for repairs, technicians must perform a series of rigorous tests. This is why when we ask for you to visit our shop, we need to look at these things in order to determine what the issue is. It's not about getting you in the shop for the heck of it.
We must identify which transmission is in your car, and which version of that transmission it is. Then we must identify the specific problem, and isolate whether it’s in the transmission or the computer system. Finally, they have to determine the likely causes for the problem, based on a logical diagnostic process. Once they have that information, the shop is able to give you a more accurate explanation of your car’s condition, and put together an accurate estimate of the costs to repair it. There’s just no way to do all that over the phone.
Unfortunately, you may encounter a few bad apples along the way (Or maybe you have in the past.).
Here are some tips to help prevent auto repair rip-off:
1. Ask friends and co-workers for referrals
2. Bring your car into any new shop first for small repairs like an oil change or a brake check and evaluate the overall service they give you.
3. Bring a check list of what your car needs (and why) whenever dropping your car off. Avoid bringing your car in and asking them to "do whatever it needs".
4. Talk to the mechanic who will be working on your car. Go for beforehand and clearly explain and point out the problem.
6. Request a written estimate.
7. Ask about the warranty for parts AND labor on any repairs and get it in writing.
8. Request that your parts be saved for your inspection. Ask before the work begins.
9. Go for a test drive before paying the bill to make sure the car drives well and/or was fixed to your satisfaction.
10. Read the bill carefully before paying. Ask for clarification on any charges that don't make sense to you.
11. Pay with a check or a credit card: you can always stop payment on a check and some credit cards offer protection against consumer fraud
Myth #1: It's OK to constantly "ride" the clutch.
If there's a philosophical way to think about how to treat your clutch, this could be it: Whenever the clutch pedal isn't all the way up or all the way down, you're putting wear on your clutch. Picture a big red light mounted on your dashboard. Whenever the clutch pedal isn't fully depressed or fully released the light is on, and your goal is to keep the light off.
That's a general way you might think about how to drive a manual transmission vehicle. In truth it's OK to spend a second or two in the process of pressing or releasing the clutch pedal (you certainly don't want to treat it like a light switch), but in general the less time spent in this transitional period the better.
Myth #2: Use the clutch to hold your car in place on steep hills.
If you're stopped on a slight incline you must use the brake to keep the car from rolling backward. If you're worried about rolling back between the time you release the brake pedal and engage the clutch you can "cheat" by pulling the emergency brake. Don't fully apply the E-brake unless you're on a really steep hill. Instead, just use enough E-brake to keep the car from rolling backward. Then engage the clutch when traffic allows and pull away from the stop, being sure to release the E-brake as soon as you start moving forward. The most important rule, however, is never use the clutch to hold your car in place while waiting on an incline. Doing this will burn out that imaginary red light on the dash — as well as really burn out the clutch.
Myth #3: Use the clutch to save your brakes.
The clutch can theoretically be used as a braking device when slowing down, but this is more trouble than it's worth. First, if you're using the clutch to slow a car to "save your brakes" you better be really good with the clutch. If you're not smooth in your downshifting you'll be putting extra wear on the clutch.
Anyone want to guess which components cost more to replace — brake pads or a clutch plate? You're better off just pushing the clutch pedal in and leaving it in, and/or shifting to neutral, when slowing down in a manual-shift vehicle — especially if you aren't extremely smooth at downshifting. If you are smooth at downshifting and you feel like going through the trouble, you can constantly downshift and release the clutch as you slow down. But even doing that action smoothly won't make your brakes last appreciably longer.
Myth #4: It's impossible to be perfectly smooth when engaging the clutch.
Always try to learn exactly where the clutch pedal is when the clutch starts to engage. You can practice this in a parking lot, and once you are familiar with it you can use this knowledge to make every shift smoother. This will add confidence to your ability to stop and start on an incline, and it will make downshifting easier, because you can quickly let the clutch pedal go from the floor to the area in the pedal travel where the clutch actually starts to engage (it's different on every car). Once you get to that point quickly you can then modulate the speed at which the pedal is released to achieve a smooth engagement. This is how you can keep from rolling back on an incline without using the E-brake.
Myth #5: It's normal for the car to lurch when downshifting.
When you do downshift (without coming to a complete stop) it's important to "rev-match." This means raising the engine's rpm as you release the clutch to more closely match your vehicle's engine speed to the rear-wheel speed. Again, this is only important on downshifting. As you accelerate and upshift you don't have to worry about rev-matching. By giving the engine just a bit of throttle when you downshift you can make the clutch engagement smoother, which reduces clutch wear and head bobbing on downshifts.
An automatic transmission becomes more reliable these days, but still it's a most-easy-to-break and very-expensive-to-fix part of the vehicle.
If heavily abused, the automatic transmission can be easily destroyed within just half an hour.
For example, a friend of mine had burnt the automatic transmission up in 20 minutes when he was trying to free his shiny Audi from the snow in the next day after he bought it! It cost him about $2000 to rebuild it and after one year it broke down again.
Also, an automatic transmission is very sensitive to the transmission fluid quality and condition. Improper fluid type can damage the transmission. A person I know added a gear oil (oil for manual transmission) into the automatic transmission. Guess what, 30 minutes of driving was enough to kill the transmission.
Obviously, when buying a used car, the automatic transmission is one of the most important parts to check. In this article I described few signs that may indicate potential transmission problem in a used car. In addition, I strongly recommend to have the used car inspected by a mechanic before buying it, it will well worth it.
With members across the US and Canada, ATRA’s network of automatic transmission repair professionals can offer you repair and warranty coverage anywhere you’re likely to drive. Because, wherever you go there’s always an ATRA member nearby.
With over 1,900 Member shop across the USA and Canada, ATRA is the largest automatic transmission repair network in the world… more than twice the size of the largest chain in theUS. This means that no chain can provide better warranty coverage than ATRA’s network of professional service centers.
Every ATRA Rebuilder Member must adhere to ATRA’s Code of Ethics…ATRA’s standards for providing honest, professional service. So, when you take your car to an ATRA Rebuilder Member, you’re assured of polite, professional service, at an honest price.
And not just automatic transmission repair: most ATRA Rebuilder Members also provide diagnostic and repair service for manual transmissions, clutches, differentials, driveshafts, drive axles, and transfer cases.
The Rebuilder Members of ATRA agree that while they remain members of the Association, they will practice the pledges of the Association code of Ethics: that they will adhere to the Service and Repair definitions which are part of the ATRA By-Laws; that they will subscribe to the Guarantee Standards which are shown herein; and that they will practice the Advertising standards of the association as per the following:
THE ATRA CODE OF ETHICS AND MEMBER PLEDGE
for Rebuilder Members of the
Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association
As members of ATRA, we pledge to ourselves and to each other to diagnose transmission problems for customers and for each other in an expert and honest manner, and to state that the removal of a transmission from a vehicle in correction of its problems is necessary, only when this is the case.
• We further pledge to provide prompt and courteous in-car diagnosis on behalf of customers of other member shops free of charge (Members may assess a charge up to one (1) hour of diagnostic time for electronic testing and scanning based on the current Golden Rule rate provided the charge is agreed to in advance by the warranting Member).
• We further pledge to act with integrity, and to speak at all times in a responsible manner, and in all ways to adhere to the concept of the Golden Rule in our dealings with the motoring public and with our competitors of industry.
• We further pledge ourselves to the promotion and improvement of the automatic transmission service and repair industry through maintaining the highest standards for parts and workmanship quality at our places of business.
• We further pledge ourselves to the continual training and retraining of ourselves and our employees, in order to keep abreast of the constant changes in the state of the art of our industry.
• We pledge to have ourselves and our employees tested and certified on a continuing basis in such a manner as will demonstrate the ATRA member shops are staffed with capable personnel.
• We finally pledge that such transmission assemblies as we represent to the consuming public and to other members as “rebuild”, will have been re-processed according to the Association Rebuilding Standards and Definitions as outlined in these By-Laws.
For more information contact ATRA at 1-866-GO-4-ATRA (1-866-464-2872). You can also visit the FAQs and Consumer Articles section for transmission repair and service information about your car. If you’d like to ask one of ATRA’s transmission repair specialist a question about your car visit the Technical Services page. And to locate the nearest ATRA member repair shop, visit the Shop Finder.
It depends on the rate of fluid loss. Obviously if it’s leaking a lot, you don’t want to drive it. Many times in older cars, you’ll have minor leakage. A minor or slow leak will allow you to drive as long as you maintain the level in the normal range. You will have to establish the rate of loss and replenish as necessary. You can always feel free to drive you car to our shop and we'll check it out really fast. It should be obvious that if fluid is running out as a stream, that you won't go very far. A transmission will usually operate "normal" until the fluid loss is a quart or more. Then the unit will exhibit adnormal symptoms and internal damage is occurring. What started as only a leak can result in a major repair bill if ignored! Like I said, you are welcome to come into Kimmer Trans, and we'll be happy to have a look.
Always check the fluid level with the engine running, the transmission in "park" which should be in neutral with the emergency brake applied), and with the engine at operating temperature. Remove the dipstick and wipe with a rag. Insert the stick fully and remove. Look at both sides of the stick to verify the same indication. Repeat the process.
The reason to check both sides of the dipstick is that after the fluid circulates through the transmission, it dumps back into the pan area and will cause an agitation of the fluid. This creates an uneven level and some fluid will "slosh" onto the stick and give a false reading. Some transmissions are worse than others.
Note: If you check the fluid level after the engine has been off for a long time, fluid from the torque converter will drain back into the pan area where the level is measured and give you a false high reading. When the engine is started, the fluid in the pan area is used to fully charge the transmission and torque converter. Also, the difference of fluid temperature will affect the measurement. The fluid volume expands when heated to operating temperature.
Another method of checking the fluid is to turn off the engine and immediately check the level. This will stop the agitation and give an accurate level (no agitation) before the fluid in the torque converter has had a chance to drain back into the pan area which would give a false-high reading.
Tip: If you have added fluid, go through the same procedure, but repeat the process several times before you look for a reading. Some of the added fluid will adhere to the side of the filler tube and can give a false reading.
Tip: If the fluid level is low, you have a leak! Transmissions do not consume fluid. Have the leak diagnosed and repaired to prevent more serious problems.
After you have added fluid, drive the vehicle for a mile or two, then recheck the level. This is especially important in front wheel drive vehicles.
The is no accurate answer to that question. There's so many things that will determine this. The mileage or time of use before major problems occur will vary greatly, and therefore, we don't see a correlation between mileage and expected transmission failure. It is not unusual that the first few years after a newly designed transmission hits the road, that early failures occur. In later years with updates to the original design, the units become more reliable. It's like anything that is new.
Enjoy your weekend. Remember if you need any assistance or have questions about your transmission. Be sure to call Kimmer Transmission and gear at 303 694 1400
Miles Cook recently wrote a post on Edmounds.com talking about manual transmissions and their history. Here's what Miles had to say...
Manual Transmission Basics
By Miles Cook
It's no secret that cars with manual transmissions are usually more fun to drive than their automatic-equipped counterparts. If you have even a passing interest in the act of driving, then chances are you also appreciate a fine-shifting manual gearbox. But how does a manual trans actually work? With our primer on automatics (or slushboxes, as detractors call them) available for your perusal, we thought it would be a good idea to provide a companion overview on manual trannies, too.
A brief history lesson shows that manual transmissions preceded automatics by several decades. In fact, up until General Motors offered an automatic in 1938, all cars were of the shift-it-yourself variety. While it's logical for many types of today's vehicles to be equipped with an automatic -- such as a full-size sedan, SUV or pickup -- the fact remains that nothing is more of a thrill to drive than a tautly suspended sport sedan, sport coupe or two-seater equipped with a precise-shifting five- or six-speed gearbox. It's what makes cars such as a Corvette, Mustang, Miata or any BMW sedan or coupe some of the most fun-to-drive cars available today.
We know which types of cars have manual trannies. Now let's take a look at how they work. From the most basic four-speed manual in a car from the '60s to the most high-tech six-speed in a car of today, the principles of a manual gearbox are the same. The driver must shift from gear to gear. Normally, a manual transmission bolts to a clutch housing (or bell housing) that, in turn, bolts to the back of the engine. If the vehicle has front-wheel drive, the transmission still attaches to the engine in a similar fashion but is usually referred to as atransaxle. This is because the transmission, differential and drive axles are one complete unit. In a front-wheel-drive car, the transmission also serves as part of the front axle for the front wheels. In the remaining text, a transmission and transaxle will both be referred to using the term transmission.
The function of any transmission is transferring engine power to the driveshaft and rear wheels (or axle halfshafts and front wheels in a front-wheel-drive vehicle). Gears inside the transmission change the vehicle's drive-wheel speed and torque in relation to engine speed and torque. Lower (numerically higher) gear ratios serve as torque multipliers and help the engine to develop enough power to accelerate from a standstill.
Initially, power and torque from the engine comes into the front of the transmission and rotates the main drive gear (or input shaft), which meshes with the cluster or counter shaft gear -- a series of gears forged into one piece that resembles a cluster of gears. The cluster-gear assembly rotates any time the clutch is engaged to a running engine, whether or not the transmission is in gear or in neutral.
Kimmer Transmission and Gear would like to wish everyone a fun and safe 4th of July.
Weird Fourth of July Cookout facts
More than 1 in 4
The chance that the hot dogs and pork sausages consumed on the Fourth of July originated in Iowa. The Hawkeye State was home to 18.9 million hogs and pigs on March 1, 2010. This represents more than one-fourth of the nation's total. North Carolina (9.1 million) and Minnesota (7.2 million) were the runners-up.
Source: USDA National Agricultural Statistics Service <http://usda.mannlib.cornell.edu/MannUsda/viewDocumentInfo.do?documentID=1086>
6.5 billion pounds
Total production of cattle and calves in Texas in 2008. Chances are good that the beef hot dogs, steaks and burgers on your backyard grill came from the Lone Star State, which accounted for about one-sixth of the nation's total production. And if the beef did not come from Texas, it very well may have come from Nebraska (4.6 billion pounds) or Kansas (3.9 billion pounds).
Source: USDA National Agricultural Statistics Service <http://usda.mannlib.cornell.edu/MannUsda/viewDocumentInfo.do?documentID=1101>
6
Number of states in which the value of broiler chicken production was $1 billion or greater between December 2007 and November 2008. There is a good chance that one of these states -- Georgia, Arkansas, North Carolina, Alabama, Mississippi or Texas -- is the source of your barbecued chicken.
Source: USDA National Agricultural Statistics Service <http://usda.mannlib.cornell.edu/MannUsda/viewDocumentInfo.do?documentID=1130>
The state that led the nation in watermelon production last year (818 million pounds). Other leading producers of this popular fruit included California, Georgia and Texas, each with more than 500 million pounds.
Source: USDA National Agricultural Statistics Service <http://usda.mannlib.cornell.edu/MannUsda/viewDocumentInfo.do?documentID=1183>
76 million
Number of Americans who said they have taken part in a barbecue during the previous year. It's probably safe to assume a lot of these events took place on Independence Day.
Source: Mediamark Research & Intelligence, as cited in the Statistical Abstract of the United States: 2010
<http://www.census.gov/compendia/statab>, Table 1203
First, You should always pay attention to how your car performs. You know your car better than anyone. Since you drive your car the most you should become more aware to how your car functions when driving and when the ignition is first activated. This is the most fundamental basic way to learn how to know when your car’s transmission is going bad.
Pay close attention to hard shifts and grinding.
let your car warm up, especially here in Denver for the winter months when cold weather could cause your transmission to lag. After your car has become warm, when switching from park to drive or park to reverse, if you notice major jolts or hard shifts from these positions, you may have transmission trouble coming your way. My car the other day made this noise, but I was parked on a hill, which was the cause. Parking on hills like that often could cause damage when you get in and put it into reverse or first gear.
When driving the car, if you notice any hard gear shifts, then your car may be in the preliminary stages of transmission trouble. Moreover, if you hear any grinding noises coming from the floorboards of your car, your car could have something wrong with the gears or valves in your transmission. You should have this checked immediately, before your transmission begins to stop operating at its optimal level.
Check for leaks. Your car should not be leaking any fluid, let along from your transmission. Transmission fluid is red in color and will be clearly apparent on the ground where your car normally resides. If you notice any fluid coming from the transmission of your car then your transmission may be going bad.
Your transmission is one major lifeline of your car, therefore it is essential to know when a car’s transmission is going bad. It’s like the spin of your back. Although it is important to know the warning signs of a bad transmission.
Once again of you do have questions, you need to call us. Kimmer transmission 303 693 1400.
The automatic transmission forces power from the engine to the drive wheels through a series of gear sets and friction devices (known as “Clutches and Bands”). It has a brain just like a human would have a brain (called the “Valve Body”) which responds to electrical and hydraulic signals that tell the transmission when and how to shift. Your brain tells your body what to do. Your valve body does the same in your transmission. It has a heart (known as the “Pump”) which provides the hydraulic pressure necessary to provide lubrication and apply the appropriate friction devices. Although it may sound simple, it is the most complex component in any automobile. It may have as many as 1,000 parts, each having to function perfectly with the others in order to work properly.
Just like it’s important to take care of your body. It’s important to take care or your transmission.
Why Maintain Your Transmission?
Since there’s nearly 1,000 parts in your transmission it’s likely to be expensive to repair. By you investing periodically in replacement of the fluid and filter along with a thorough inspection can only prolong the transmission’s life and might save you thousands of dollars in the long run.
2.We’ll ask a few questions to determine whether thevehicle can be driven to the center or, if it is safer, to dispatch a tow truck to have it brought in.
3. When the vehicle arrives at our shop, we’ll perform a procedure to determine whether the problem is inside the transmission or is external to it, or, for that matter, if there is any problem at all.
4. If it is determined that the problem is external of the transmission, we’ll recommend an appropriate course of action to resolve the problem. It may involve a repair to another part of the vehicle that either controls or has some influence on the function of the transmission.
5. If the transmission itself is found to be at fault we may ask for authorization to remove it from the vehicle and disassemble it to determine the cause and the extent of the damage.
6.When the transmission has been fully transmission cooler will help to bring the temperature down to normal operating level adding significantly to the life of the transmission.
7.You will be informed as to exactly what caused the transmission failure and the steps that will be taken to once again make the transmission road-worthy. Several repair options with warranties will be offered.
8.Once you have chosen the option that best suits your requirements, the repair, reconditioning, replacement, or rebuilding of the transmission will be completed. After the transmission has been reinstalled in the vehicle it will be road tested to confirm that the process has indeed solved the problem. You will then be informed that the vehicle is ready.
You know your car better than anyone. You’ll notices things, her weird sounds, or feel operational errors before anyone that’s not use to your car will notice. Some times if you act fast enough on these clues, you may be able to save yourself thousands. I wanted to comeup with some noises your car may make if something is going wrong with your transmission..
Here are ten sounds that are likely to indicate some transmission malfunction.
1. Clicking
2. Buzzing
3. Whistling
4. Moans or Groans
5. Squealing or Screeching
6. Hum or Low Whine in Neutral (N) or Park (P)
7. Hum or Low Whine in all Drive ranges
8. Clank when engaging in Drive (D) or Reverse (R)
9. Grating or Rumbling in Gear
10. Chatter or Clunk when Starting in Drive (D) or Reverse (R)
If you do have any questions, you may give Jeff a call at 303 693 1400
1. Delayed Engagement in drive or reverse when the vehicle is cold. Also called “Morning Sickness”. Vehicle won’t move or shifts late during the first few minutes of operation.
2. Doesn’t Go in Drive or Reverse. You place the shift lever in drive or reverse and nothing happens.
3. Hard to Go in Any Shift Lever Position. Even racing the engine won’t move the vehicle.
4. (Slipping) Slippage. Engine goes fast but vehicle moves slowly or won’t accelerate as it should.
5. Fresh Fluid Under the car.
6. Shifting at Improper Speed Levels.
7. Passing Gear Won’t Engage. You get no surge of power when you press the pedal to the floor.
8. Shifting, Clunking into Gear. Noise or harsh feeling when transmission is placed in gear or while shifting from one gear to another.
9. Erratic Shifting. Shifts are sometimes unexpected. Speed at which shifts occur keeps changing.
10. Vehicle Moves Forward or Backward in Neutral (N).
11. Vehicle tries to move in Park (P).
12. Vehicle Labors or Stalls on Take Off.
13. A “Check Engine” or “Service Engine Soon” light is shining on your dashboard.
14. The Shift handle is hard to move in or out of any position.
15. The Shift indicator must be slightly off P or N to start car.
16. The Shift indicator doesn’t point to the proper range.
17. Strange noises of any kind.
18. A burnt or rancid odor coming from under the hood or underneath the vehicle.
19. Excessive amounts of debris found in the transmission pan during an inspection.
1. Check transmission fluid regularly and properly. (See Owner’s Manual for Details)
2. Check transmission fluid after running hot. Stop and go traffic, hilly terrain, hot weather, or towing can build up excess transmission heat causing fluid to be lost, damaged, or both. Check it no later than your next stop for gasoline.
3. Install an external cooler in high stress conditions. Towing a trailer, hauling heavy loads, or being stuck in traffic often creates excessive transmission heat. An external cooler can help to prolong the life of your transmission by reducing heat and friction.
4. Change transmission fluid more often in high stress conditions. Transmission fluid cools, cleans, and lubricates the internal transmission parts while providing the hydraulic pressure to make all of the components work together. When the fluid loses its ability to perform those tasks efficiently trouble can’t be far away. Any of the conditions in items 2 & 3 above will shorten the effective life of transmission fluid. In those cases, change the fluid a minimum of twice a year (unless otherwise specified in the owners manual).
5. Check any malfunctions promptly. Repair bills tend to rise in proportion to mileage driven after the first signs of trouble. The longer you drive with a malfunctioning transmission, the more damage you may cause, and the more money it may cost you.
6. Have the transmission linkage and other adjustments checked periodically. Especially after the vehicle has been in an accident or has had any major engine work performed.
7. Keep your engine properly tuned. A poor running engine can, at times, display symptoms similar to a transmission problem.
8. Have other drive train components that may affect transmission function checked regularly. Drive shafts and their universal joints, drive axles and their constant velocity joints, engine flywheels or flex plates, computer system and sensors, radiator and cooling lines to the transmission, engine and transmission mountings can cause problems.
9. Have your vehicle’s cooling system checked twice a year for leaks, proper coolant level and strength. Antifreeze can deteriorate over time causing it to become ineffective creating overheating or freeze-up conditions.
10. Take your vehicle for a complete physical check up at least once a year. This should include all safety components such as lights, brakes and steering. Remember that a poor running engine or certain transmission problems can be a safety hazard.
Looking to buy a couple tires for the front or rear ofyour 4 Wheel Drive or All Wheel Drive vehicle? Maybe you just did. This is nothing but trouble and your tire dealer should know better, but frankly, most likely won’t.You must always purchase no less thana set offour tiresfor these vehicles. Anything less, then plan tokeep that check book handy, you are about to need it again.
First, let’s define the difference between4 wheel drive and all wheel drive -
·All wheel drive (AWD)- power from the transmission goes through some form of a transfer case and is distributed to all four wheels anytime the vehicle is in motion.Power distribution can differ at each individual wheelaccording to load demand and road conditions; we willexplain how this works in more detail later.
·4 Wheel Drive (4WD or 4×4)- Normal drivingmode is 2 wheel drive with the power being distributed to the rear wheels.Driver selects 4WD when necessary (part time 4WD) by pulling a lever or pushing a switch, at which point, power from the transmission goes through a transfer case and is distributed to all four wheels equally.Some makes and models offer an AWD mode on their 4WD vehicles. When in this selection, power distributioncan differ at each individual wheel according to load demandand road conditions.
In both applications, note the use of a transfer case to direct the power to the front and or rear wheels.
On an AWD vehicle, while driving under normal conditions and normal traction, the transfer case supplies an uneven split of power with as much as 80% of the power supplied to the rear, and 20% at the front. This, of course, varies according to year make and model of the vehicle. Additionally,some vehicles are primarily front wheel drive, in which case, the distribution of power is reversed.As road conditions deteriorate traction becomes less stable, the vehicle detects the slippage and begins divertingmore and more power from theprimary drivingwheelsto theopposing end to maintain stability and control, upto the point that all 4 wheels are receiving an equal amount of power.
On 4WD vehicles, while driving under normal conditions and normal traction, the vehicle is in 2 wheel drive (2WD) mode. In most cases, 2WD mode uses the rear wheels to drive, however, some vehicles are normally front wheel drive. 4WD mode does not become active until the driver selects or commands the vehicle to do so. This can be done by use of a mechanical lever, button, or switch. Once the driver selects 4WD, power is equally distributed to both the front and rear wheels at all times. Use of 4WD on dry pavement or when traction is not compromised, will cause a conditionknown asinteraxlefight. This can most commonly be felt while attempting to navigate a turn. The vehicle will bind and try to bring itself to a stop or make the front of the vehicle hop through the turn. Interaxlefight will not only cause a definite drivability complaint, but can cause mechanical damage and/or failure.
There are many more factors involved in these systems, but at least fornow, we have a basic understanding of 4WD and AWD.
Now let’s start adding to these equation- Sensors.
The most basic sensor that we become concerned with that influences the AWD and 4WD systems are theWheel SpeedSensors, also known as ABS (Anti-lock Brake System) sensors. These are located at each wheel and are monitoring wheel speed while you drive down the road, not just when the brake pedal is applied. The most common type of ABS sensor is a magnetic pick-up. Again, I will keep things simple, but you will get the idea. The sensor itself is basically a magnet with some wires coming out of it going to the vehicle’s computer. On the axle or wheel hub, is areluctorwheel.A reluctor wheel is made of some sort of ferrous metal and is placed or pressed onto whatever rotating component you wish to monitor.Simply described, itlooks like a gear with square teeth..
As the reluctor wheel’s teethrotate past the sensor,it excites and relaxes the magnetic sensor creatingan open/closed count, precisely like binary math. A tooth passes- closed or one, a space passes- open or zero. This information is being sent directly to the computer. Just for our purposes, let’s say there are 20 teeth on thereluctor. This means that every time the wheel completes a single revolution, the sensor will count to 20.20 and the computer now understand that the wheel has turned completely, 1 time. Bear with me for a moment and you will see why this is important.
Let’s say that the tires on the front of the vehicle are still good, but half worn, and when rotated one complete revolution, will travel 3 feet, or 36 inches. This means that every 36 inches, the computer will see a count of 20 from the front ABS sensors.
Now let’s say that the tires on the rear of the vehicle are brand new. They are the same brand and size, but with no wear. When they complete one full revolution, they travel 3 and 1/2 feet, or 42 inches down the road. These wheel sensorsare counting to 20 every 42 inches while the fronts count to 20 every 36 inches. By the time the front wheels travel 42 inches, the wheel sensors have sent a count of 23.30 to the computer.
The front of the vehicle has not actually moved any farther than the rear, but the computer sees the front wheels moving faster than the rear. To the computer, this means the front wheels are slipping, so it’stime to tell the transfer case todivert some power to the front. Here in lies the problem. Since the front wheels are not actually slipping, no matter how hard the computer and transfer case work, they cannot bring the counts at the front and rear wheels to match. We now have a form of inter axle fightwith the computer and transfer case trying to fix it….and they won’t quit trying. The faster and farther the vehicle travels, the farther off the two ends get, and the more the counts spread apart. As far as the transfer case and computer are concerned, yourfront wheelsare constantly slipping.
Over time and use (and it does not take much time and use)these conditions wear or burn out the internal components of the transfer case. Under some more extreme conditions, theycan evencause failure to the transmission as well.Depending on your vehicle and the extent of damages, you’re nowlooking at $1000.00 to $3000.00in drive train repairs (some vehicles, even more). Oh, and by the way, you stillneed to buy 4 more new tires, or repeat failure will result.
There are more and different sensors involved in how these systems operate depending on the vehicle. The description here was used just to give you the basic idea so you could understandone moreimportant role your tires play in the operation of your vehicle and how your purchasing decisions can have definite adverse effects. Above, I gave the example of a 6 inch difference in rolling diameter. In the real world, and in real application, some of these systems are sensitive to as little as 3/16 of an inch at a single tire. Performing regular tire rotation (I recommend no more than every 5k miles and rotating the tires in an X formation) as well asmaintain proper and equal tire pressure all the way around, can also be a factor in the health of your 4WD/AWD vehicle.
Iam constantlyemphasizing the importance of this information to tire dealers all around our area. Many of them listen and take it straight to heart. After all, what could be a better up selling tool from two tires to four, than the truth? There are others out there, however, that would rather sell you the two you requested than risk you buying nothing from them at all. In my opinion, they aresupposed to betheexperts of their trade and part of their responsibility is to beprofessional enough to advise you properly.
At least now, YOU know better. The few dollars you spend now, along with the proper care and maintenance to your tires, will save you a substantial amount of time, and money, when the rubber meets the road.
Avoid simple names or words you can find in a dictionary, even with numbers tacked on the end. Instead, mix upper- and lower-case letters, numbers, and symbols. A password should have at least eight characters. One good technique is to insert numbers or symbols in the middle of a word, such as this variant on the word “houses”: hO27usEs!
It’s an ideal target for identity thieves, who could use it to obtain more information about you and potentially gain access to your bank or credit card account. If you’ve already entered a birth date, go to your profile page and click on the Info tab, then on Edit Information. Under the Basic Information section, choose to show only the month and day or no birthday at all.
Overlooking Useful Privacy Controls
For almost everything in your Facebook profile, you can limit access to only your friends, friends of friends, or yourself. Restrict access to photos, birth date, religious views, and family information, among other things. You can give only certain people or groups access to items such as photos, or block particular people from seeing them. Consider leaving out contact info, such as phone number and address, since you probably don’t want anyone to have access to that information anyway.
Don’t use a child’s name in photo tags or captions. If someone else does, delete it by clicking on Remove Tag. If your child isn’t on Facebook and someone includes his or her name in a caption, ask that person to remove the name.
Mentioning That You’ll Be Away From Home
That’s like putting a “no one’s home” sign on your door. Wait until you get home to tell everyone how awesome your vacation was and be vague about the date of any trip.
Letting Search Engines Find You
To help prevent strangers from accessing your page, go to the Search section of Facebook’s privacy controls and select Only Friends for Facebook search results. Be sure the box for public search results isn’t checked.
Permitting Youngsters to Use Facebook Unsupervised
Facebook limits its members to ages 13 and over, but children younger than that do use it. If you have a young child or teenager on Facebook, the best way to provide oversight is to become one of their online friends. Use your e-mail address as the contact for their account so that you receive their notifications and monitor their activities. “What they think is nothing can actually be pretty serious,” says Charles Pavelites, a supervisory special agent at the Internet Crime Complaint Center. For example, a child who posts the comment “Mom will be home soon, I need to do the dishes” every day at the same time is revealing too much about the parents’ regular comings and goings.
Consumer Reports has no relationship with any advertisers on Yahoo!
Copyrighted 2009, Consumers Union of U.S., Inc. All Rights Reserved.
In the transmission business, there is a lot of room for the shop to, well… be dishonest. Some transmission shops in my area are trustworthy and very good at what they do. Now let’s define what is good, and what is bad.
Just as I’ve stressed throughout my videos and writings all over the internet, you need to find someone you can trust and believe.I understand the stress people go through when a car breaks down, and you then have to find a shop to fix the repairs. You will probably only set foot in the transmission repair shop once or twice during the life of your car. Most car transmissions are made to last the life of the vehicle if properly maintained and serviced regularly. Most automatic transmissions have a filter that should be replaced, and the fluid changed periodically. Every 25k miles is the general rule of thumb.
The manufacturers do a great job at protecting their rears from lawsuits, and will sometimes be a little too protective if you just go off the manual, so also ask your auto repair mechanic for his opinion. If you are in need of transmission work, you should ask your transmission repair shop if they do transmission repairs in house or subcontract the work to another shop. Some shop may subcontract some of the repairs to other shops, which can make the cost go way up.
I would recommend looking for a transmission shops that focuses on nothing but transmission repairs. Shops that focus in this area usally have the parts that are needed on hand and they can get the work done a lot faster, which gets you back on the road.
Have you seen the recent G.M. ad on T.V. If you have not, you’ll want to check it out. When I first seen this, I thought it was kind of strange. Come to find out G.M. is now in a lot of trouble for misleading America.
Hope everyone had a great weekend. Make sure if you have any transmission questions you give us a call at 303 693 1400. Please send your friends and family to us if they have any questions. Here’s some gas saving tips.
Keep your car properly maintained. Visit your mechanic to check if your car is properly in tune and that there are no major mechanical problems detracting from your gas mileage. You should make sure you check out out video series on questions you should ask your mech.
Make sure your air filter is clean, as this can improve mileage by up to 10%.
Perhaps the simplest mileage savings comes from keeping your tires properly inflated.
Purchase a tire gauge at your automotive supply store and learn to use it!
Go for the shade. The hot summer sun that makes the inside of your car feel like a sauna also zaps fuel from your gas tank.
“If you let your car bake in the sun there’s going to be a greater amount of evaporative emissions that take place than if you park in the shade,” says Jim Kliesch, research associate at the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy and vehicle analyst for GreenerCars.com.
So park your car in the shade of a building or tree whenever possible. And buy a good windshield shade. A windshield shade blocks sunlight and helps to keep heat out of the inside of your car.
Use your garage for your car. Got a garage? Clear it out and make room for your car. Parking in your garage will help your car stay warm in winter and cool in summer, and you won’t have to depend as much on your gas-guzzling air-conditioning or defroster when you drive.
Pump up your tires. Don’t get caught driving on underinflated tires. Underinflated tires wear down more quickly and they also lower your car’s gas mileage.
“Tires that have low pressure offer more resistance so the engine is going to work harder to keep the car at 60,” says Brian Moody, road test editor at Edmunds.com.
Your car’s gas mileage may plummet by as much as 15 percent. Driving on underinflated tires may also reduce the life of your tires by 15 percent or more.
Check your tire pressure once a month. Buy a digital gauge and keep it in your glove box. Compare the pressure in your tires with the recommended pressure listed in your owner’s manual and on the placard in your car door. Then inflate your tires as needed. Be sure to check tire pressure when your tires are cold. A good time is early in the morning after your car’s been idle overnight.
Keep your engine in tune. Fixing a car that is out of tune or has failed an emissions test can boost gas mileage by about 4 percent. So be sure to give your car regular tune-ups. You’ll also want to watch out for worn spark plugs. A misfiring spark plug can reduce a car’s fuel efficiency by as much as 30 percent.
Replace air filters. Keep a close eye on your engine’s air filter. When the engine air filter clogs with dirt, dust and bugs, it causes your engine to work harder and your car becomes less fuel-efficient. Replacing a clogged air filter could improve your gas mileage by as much as 10 percent and save you 15 cents a gallon. It’s a good idea to have your engine air filter checked at each oil change. The Car Care Council recommends changing your car’s air and oil filters every three months or 3,000 miles or as specified in your owner’s manual.
Use the right oil. You can improve your car’s gas mileage by 1 percent to 2 percent by using the manufacturer’s recommended grade of motor oil. Opt for motor oil with the words “energy conserving” on the API performance label. This oil contains friction-reducing additives.
Don’t skimp on maintenance. Be serious about auto care. Your car’s performance depends on it.
“Always follow the manufacturer-recommended maintenance,” Moody says. “The car’s designed to run a certain way. If you neglect it, it won’t be as efficient.”
Don’t forget. http://www.KimmerTrans.com gives great referal bonuses, so you’ll have the oppotunity to benefit here.
Everyone say, “Geez KimmerTrans Your The Best.”
Have a safe weekend from the guys here at Kimmer Transmission and gear.
Call us if you need anything at 303 693 1400 — Talk soon
Thought maybe someone would want to know more about this.
Adding to signs of recovery in the auto industry, the company says its North American operations have turned a $1.3-billion first-quarter profit, compared with a $665-million loss in the same period in 2009.
Read the rest here — >http://www.latimes.com/business/la-fi-ford-20100428,0,3187995.story
Here at Kimmer Trans it means so much to use to educate our customers and future customers. Although we’re in business to serve and make money, we want to provide you with the best information we can to prevent you from having to come into our shop. Remember if you do know of anyone needing transmission work or repairs. Make sure you send them our way. We provide great referal bonuses.
What can damage your automatic transmission
Most of the transmission troubles start from overheating. Under heavy load, such as towing a heavy trailer, rocking the vehicle from the snow, having continuous stop and go traffic in hot weather, racing, etc. the transmission overheats. At higher temperatures the transmission fluid burns, losing its lubricating qualities and becomes oxidized leaving deposits all over inside the transmission. Exposed to the heat the rubber seals and gaskets inside the transmission become hardened causing leaks. The metal parts warp and lose their strength. All this, sooner or later, results in transmission failure. For example, a friend of mine burned the transmission when he was spinning the wheels too hard trying to free his shiny Audi from the snow on the next day after he bought it!
However, overheating is not the only reason – sometimes transmission breaks down because of poor design, due to lack of maintenance or after being rebuilt by inexperienced technician. Few other reasons: harsh driving, too low or too high transmission fluid level or wrong transmission fluid type – a person I know added gear oil into the automatic transmission… guess, what happen? – the transmission died after 40 minutes of driving!
1. Check engine oil, transmission fluid and coolant.
Once a month or 1,000 miles:
2. Check tire pressure – with tire gauge.
3. Check transmission fluid.
4. Check brake fluid.
5. Wax car (to protect finish).
6. Check belts and hoses.
Every 3 months or 3,000 miles:
7. Change oil and oil filter (every 6 months or 3,000 miles).
8. Lubricate chassis.
9. Check transmission fluid.
10. Check all drive belts (fan belts) frayed or cracked belts.
Every 6 months or 6,000 miles:
11. Change oil and filter (every 6 months or 3,000 miles).
12. Inspect suspension.
13. Rotate tires.
Every 12 months or 12,000 miles:
14. Flush radiator, replace anti-freeze, check air conditioning system.
15. Replace air filters.
16. Lubricate chassis.
Every 2 years or 24,000 miles.
17. Replace spark plugs (30,000 miles average suggested for unleaded gas) and PC valve.
18. Change automatic transmission fluid, filter and pan gasket.
19. Inspect brake linings.
Every 3 years or 30,000 miles:
20. Check and test ignition wires (replace if needed).
21. Test cooling system and heating hoses (replace if needed).
22. Check drive belts (replace if needed).
23. Replace fluid in differential and manual transmission.
Every 50,000 miles.
24. Check brake shoes (replace if needed)
25. If you have a major repair to do, it’s wise to get at least 3 estimates, if possible, before you decide.
26. Read and follow your car owner’s manual – it’s your car’s bible for making your car last longer.
27. Whether you are a man, woman, boy or girl, learn to do some routine maintenance on your car yourself. A multitude of books, videos, magazines and classes are available at your local library that will teach you for free if you don’t know. Learn how to check your own oil, transmission fluid, tire pressure and coolant, etc.
28. If you find a good mechanic who you can trust, stick with him even if his prices are a bit higher – all things being equal. You’ll always save time, money and aggravation in the long run.
29. Don’t race or gun your engine when you start it up. Accelerate slowly and smoothly when your engine is cold.
30. Avoid burning rubber – it places excessive wear on the transmission, rear end, not to mention your tires.
31. An international tire company estimated that 33% of all tires on the road are under-inflated (low air). Under-inflated tires wear out quicker and have a tendency to blow out easier.
32. A garaged car lasts longer. A car port is next best, and a car cover is a distant third.
33. Avoid jackrabbit starts and stops. Stop and accelerate gradually.
34. Avoid tailgating, tire squealing turns, flying over speed bumps, pot holes and revving your engine.
35. When possible, avoid driving your car during rush hour stop and go traffic periods.
36. Keep front-end aligned, for longer tire life and better gas mileage.
37. Make sure you get promised repairs in writing including how much it will cost.
38. Avoid car dealers except to have highly specialized repairs done that can’t be done properly anywhere else.
39. It’s hard to be overcharged when you get three estimates before you have the work done.
40. Beware: Cheapest is not always the best. Normally, the best mechanics with the best equipment and training cost more.
41. Often mechanics that charge extremely low prices have inferior or out-dated equipment, little to no formal training or are under-insured.
42. Complex electrical problems are so involved that serious electrical work should be done in an “Auto Electric” shop. They have the equipment, tool and training to do the job more efficiently than the average mechanic.
43. If your car has “Cruise Control” use it. Using cruise control will save you 5% to 10% of a gallon of gas on long trips.
44. Avoid constantly pressing and releasing the accelerator when driving. This practise not only wastes fuel, but it puts excessive wear on the drive train of your car.
45. Don’t ride your brake pedal, this wears out your brake linings pre-maturely, and wastes fuel.
46. Driving with your windows all the way down at higher speeds, will waste 10% more gallons of gasoline than driving with them closed.
47. Research by a major car manufacturer has revealed that neglect of proper routine maintenance is the number one reason for the enormous increase in car repairs being required.
48. Tires purchased at department stores such as Sears, Montgomery Wards, K-Mart etc., can be an excellent value because many are made by leading tire manufacturers. For a list of what manufacturer makes which tires for what department store, write to: Tire Information Center, P.O. Box 677, Syosset, NY 11791
49. When purchasing or changing tires, make sure you have them spin balanced.
50. Avoid cleaning your windshield with a dry rag or towel. Always dampen with water or some other cleaning liquid. Dry towels grind and scratch your windshield hindering your visibility.
51. Avoid turning on the car air-conditioning while running at highway speeds as this tends to put an immediate heavy load on
your compressor and clutch. This could cause excessive wear and tear on these components. Instead turn your air conditioner on at car speeds below 25 to 30 m.p.h. This helps to preserve your expensive compressor.
52. Try to avoid running your car with the tank low on gas. Keeping a low tank of gas increases the chance of dirt, water/moisture and rust forming in your fuel system. Keeping a full tank decreases the chance of dirt and other foreign matter forming in your fuel system.
53. Tires driven at 70 m.p.h. wear out almost twice as fast as cars that go 50 m.p.h.
54. A government study has confirmed, the top three causes of car breakdowns while on the road are: (a) running out of gas (b) tire troubles (c) cooling system problems (overheating)
55. The best as well as the easiest ways to find a good car repair shop is by recommendation or referrals from satisfied customers.
56. To work on a late model computer-controlled engines, make sure the shop you choose has the equipment to handlecomputer-electric service/repair. Sophisticated diagnostic equipment is a must.
57. To choose the right repair shop for you, it’s wise to have a small or minor maintenance or repair job done first to see how
the repair shop and mechanic treat you and your car.
58. Give detailed description of your car’s problem when you take it in for repairs. The more you can describe what your car is
doing or not doing (thumping, squealing, clacking sound, etc.) the faster and less it will cost for your mechanic to fix it.
59. When in doubt about the cost of a repair or a mechanic’s honesty get a second opinion. This is one of the best ways to
protect yourself from being ripped-off until you can find a permanent repair shop.
60. Regular oil changes are the most important thing you can do to protect your engine and make it last longer.
61. If you have a manual transmission, downshift to slow your car down instead of using your brakes. This will save wear and tear on your braking system.
62. Each time you have your engine oil checked, have your transmission fluid checked also.
63. Protect your car’s interior and make it last longer – park your car in the shade or place a windshield guard or cover in
the windshield.
64. If you spill something inside your car, clean it up immediately before it dries. Delaying even 30 minutes can sometimes leave a permanent stain or spot. NOTE: To better protect your car seats have them treated with scotchguard.
NOTE: According to current auto insurance statistics, the average U.S. car’s useful life is 10 years or 100,000 miles. By following proper preventative maintenance you can often double your car’s useful life, and spend less time visiting your local
mechanic.
Start with the most obvious. Is the shop neat and clean? Are employees genuinely concerned with your questions and are their answers direct, to the point and reasonable? There’s a lot to be said about a shop that will actually listen.
Look at the credentials of the business and the employees who will service your vehicle. Many shops will post educational certifications or accomplishments and professional business affiliations in their waiting areas. Make sure you ask questions, so you understand what these certifications mean. Some affiliations to look for include trade association membership, such as the Automotive Service Association (ASA), and membership in the Better Business Bureau (BBB).
Ask about the shop’s warranty. Most automotive service facilities will warranty their parts and labor either in writing or in shop posted announcements. One of our customers needed to use his warrenty out of the state. Read what he said Kimmer Transmission Warranty
Ask family, friends and neighbors for their recommendations. Word-of-mouth referrals are the shop’s best form of advertising. You should also check out what our past customers are saying.
Ask about the equipment being used to diagnose and perform the service. Is it up-to-date and are the technicians educated in the proper equipment use? Sit back and watch their technicians work on other cars in the shop. Is there even cars in their shop? This may tell you something. From my experience, successful shops, will have cars in the bay being worked on or waiting to get worked on.
Transmission fluid should be changed periodically. Your owner’s manual should give you the recommended intervals which could be anywhere from 15,000 miles to 100,000 miles. Most transmission experts recommend changing the fluid and filter every 25,000 miles.
Few transmissions have drain plugs to drain the old fluid. In order to get the fluid out, the technician removes the transmission oil pan. This is quite a messy job and generally not recommended for the casual do-it-yourselfer. Even if the transmission has a drain plug, the only way to also change the transmission filter is to remove the pan. When the pan is down, the technician can check for metal shavings and other debris which are indicators of impending transmission problems.
In most cases during these transmission services, only about half the oil is able to be removed from the unit. This is because much of the oil is in the torque converter and cooler lines and cannot be drained without major disassembly. The fluid change intervals are based on the fact that some old fluid remains in the system.
When the transmission is serviced, make sure that the correct fluid is used to re-fill it. Each transmission manufacturer has their own recommendation for the proper fluid to use and the internal components are designed for that specific formula. GM usually uses Dexron, Fords prior to 1983 use Type F while later models use Mercon.
Late model Chrysler products use ATF +3 +4 (Not using the correct fluid for Chrysler transmissions is the most common reason for their transmission problems.) Toyota sometimes uses Type T which is only available through Toyota and Lexus Parts departments. Honda also specs out their own formula which is available from Honda or Acura parts departments. A transmission will not work properly or may even slip or shudder with the incorrect fluid, so make sure that you double check.
Your owner’s manual will tell you which fluid is required. Naturally, the owner’s manual will try to convince you to only use the manufacturer’s branded fluid, but they will also provide you with the specs for the oil. If the aftermarket product indicates on its container that they meet or exceed the specs for a particular type of transmission fluid, it is generally ok to use that product. Source Here
HOW CAN YOU PROTECT YOURSELF AGAINST AUTO REPAIR SCAMS?
1) You must find service provider before you need one
2) You could always ask friends or family to recommend one that is reliable.
3) You also check see what organizations they belong to. Once you find out that info, you can call the organization to learn about that company.
The transmission flush is a process that makes it possible to clear the majority of old transmission fluid from the transmission of a motor vehicle. This process also helps to remove bad or old residue of aged transmission fluid from the converters, coolers, and cooler lines that often are part of how the original design of transmission was built. The proponents of conducting a regular automatic transmission flush point to several ways that the function and life of the transmission may be enhanced.
In a easy draining of old transmission fluid, a drain plug in the transmission is removed and the fluid drains in a pan. This process makes it possible to rid the transmission of a significant amount of the older fluid, however, it does not thoroughly clean the system of your transmission. The end result is that older fluid remains in your transmission. When this happens, the older fluid will mix with the new fluid and thus dilute the new fluid.
By doing a transmission flush, the older fluid is removed and the overall transmission system is cleaned. This means there is less residue to contaminate and weaken the new transmission fluid.
While it is possible to buy flush machines for home use (It’s just doesn’t make sense for most.) it is a better idea to have the transmission flush conducted by a qualified mechanic. While a transmission flush does cost a little more than simply draining and replacing the fluid, the investment is well worth your time and money, in addition, can mean a better operation for the transmission and possibly minimize the chances for having to replace the transmission during the life of the vehicle.
If you have ever driven a car with an automatic transmission, then you know that there are two big differences between an automatic transmission and amanu al transmission:
There is no clutch pedal in an automatic transmission car.
There is no gear shift in an automatic transmission car. Once you put the transmission into drive, everything else is automatic.
Both the automatic transmission (plus its torque converter) and amanual transmission (with itsclutch) accomplish exactly the same thing, but they do it in totally different ways. It turns out that the way an automatic transmission does it is absolutely amazing!
If you drive a stick-shift car, then you may have several questions floating in your head.
How does the funny “H” patternthat I am moving this shift knob through have any relation to the gears inside the transmission? What is moving inside the transmission when I move the shifter?
When I mess up and hear that horrible grinding sound, what is actually grinding? What would happen if I were to accidentally shift into reverse while I am speeding down the freeway? Would the entire transmission explode?
In this article, we’ll answer all of these questions and more as we explore the interior of a manual transmission.Cars need transmissions because of the physics of the gasoline engine. First, any engine has a redline — a maximum rpm value above which the engine cannot go without exploding. Second, if you have read How Horsepower Works, then you know that engines have narrow rpm ranges where horsepower and torque are at their maximum. For example, an engine might produce its maximum horsepower at 5,500 rpm. The transmission allows thegear ratio between the engine and the drive wheels to change as the car speeds up and slows down. You shift gears so the engine can stay below the redline and near the rpm band of its best performance. READ THE REST OF THIS ARTICLE
